On Ne Peut Plus Monter

"You can't get any higher." So spoke the priest last Sunday as he gave Miriam and me a behind-the-scenes tour of the Cathédrale Saint-Etienne here in Bourges. We had just finished a perilous climb up a staircase that permitted only one person at a time for safety reasons. Although it was made of stone, the staircase was built with the cathedral during the 13th century and has thus suffered 800 years of erosion. To fall from the stairway would mean certain death as the stairs were hidden in with the buttresses on the exterior of the cathedral. Picture if you will a right triangle. The cathedral itself forms the vertical leg and a walkway with only one handrail (and nothing on the other side to keep you from falling) forms the horizontal leg. The staircase connects the two with nothing but space between. If possible, the German assistant was even more afraid of heights (and the stairs) than I was. I told her not to worry - God wouldn't let her fall - it would disturb the 11:00 mass. Legs shaking and hearts racing we tackled our fears one step at a time.
It was worth it. We re-entered the cathedral in the wooden rafters that supported the roof (how many tourists get to see that??). After crossing the rafters on a pathway made of slightly-rotting timber we emerged on the rooftop of the cathedral with a breathtaking view of the city. We stood there for a few minutes, the whole world at our feet, revelling in our accomplishment.
Luckily we took a different route back down - one that led us in and out, up and down and all around the cathedral. We saw the stained glass windows from the outside, peeked at the congregation through hidden doors and windows, and even stopped in to say "salut" to Gros Guillaume (Big William), the largest of the cathedral's bells.
We finished our tour at the organ, arriving just in time for the the last few numbers. We stood there, the cathedral stretched out below us, watching the people file out the doors like little ants. It was a truly unique and awesome experience - one that will not be soon forgotten.